22-01-2025
Filipe Natálio, a researcher at NOVA FCT, has secured new funding from the European Research Council (ERC). As part of the Biomolecular Science Research Unit (UCIBIO) at the School, Natálio is pioneering sustainable solutions for coloring cotton fibers.
His innovative work involves the development of new pigments for directly coloring cotton fibers and cultivating cotton with desired colors “embedded” directly in the fibers, such as blue, similar to denim, or special properties like hydrophobicity, which repels water.
“This approach paves the way for a more sustainable future in the textile industry, where Portugal plays a leading role in the European market,” Natálio explains. Notably, the processes avoid genetic modification or the creation of genetically modified cotton plants. Additionally, the resulting colors are more durable, maintaining vibrancy even after repeated washing.
This groundbreaking idea has garnered the attention of the European Union, securing funding through two ERC grants—an ERC Consolidator Grant worth €2 million and an ERC Proof-of-Concept Grant worth €150,000. Now, another ERC Proof-of-Concept Grant worth €150,000 has been awarded to further develop the "BioDenim" project.
“The EU imposes strict regulations on genetically modified plants and organisms, limiting the development of technologies that rely on such methods. Our innovative solutions align with biological principles and are based on a deep understanding of how cotton fibers are formed,” Natálio explains.
A Sugar-Based Solution
Filipe Natálio’s team developed this groundbreaking method using sugar molecules. Cotton fibers, like those in a t-shirt, grow as cells enveloped in a “blanket” of cellulose. Cellulose, a polymer made of identical units resembling Lego pieces made of sugar, is a key component of many everyday products. By understanding this process, the scientists designed and synthesized sugar molecules to supply to cotton plants. The result was cotton dyed with these sugar molecules, producing colors that remained intact over time.
“Harnessing biological systems is one of humanity’s final frontiers, but the complexity of these organisms has challenged the use of biochemistry for material production,” Natálio says. “This approach demonstrates that it is possible to modify a plant’s properties, specifically cotton, without genetic modifications. Our research at the intersection of chemistry and plant biochemistry plays a crucial role in creating sustainable solutions for the industry,” he adds.
These innovative solutions aim to establish a unique ecosystem in Portugal, linking fundamental research to industry and the market, which is increasingly receptive to sustainable innovations.
Looking ahead, Filipe Natálio and his team will continue their research at NOVA FCT, focusing on optimizing this method and scaling it up to a pilot level with national and international industry partners.
NOVA FCT now holds a total of 21 ERC grants, making it one of the Portuguese higher education institutions with the highest concentration of these research grants in Portugal.
